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Guide to Hiking China's Old Road to Shu

The rugged terrain of the Qinling and Daba Mountains provided many
narrow passes which were easily defended. These played an important
role early on, especially during the Three Kingdoms period (220–280 A.D.)
when two of the three contending states were located at either end of the
Road to Shu. The famous Sword Gate Pass was so impregnable during
this era that a small Shu army was able to successfully hold off an
enemy of 30,000 here. For most of the road's long history, however, the
passes functioned as military checkpoints where soldiers collected
taffifs and verified travel credentials. Many of the most strategic passes
now have highways running through them. The Qing dynasty fort at
Sword Gate Pass (below right) and the plank road which accessed it
from the north were both destroyed by a highway built in 1935. A new
fort with some planking has been reconstructed to replace it (below left)
and the site remains a popular, although somewhat Disneyesque,
Chinese tourist attraction.  The plank road through another of the
barrier passes, Stone Sheep Pass (right bottom), was also destroyed by
highway construction, but the scenery of the gorge itself which is
several miles long is still spectacular. The only pass to have remained
virtually unchanged for centuries (right top) is so remote that it has
been forgotten by everyone but the locals.  It can only be accessed by
a day-long trek over two mountains on Hike 14.

Barrier Passes


Flagstones

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                                         ©Hope Lindsey Justman