19th century Western travelers considered Chengdu one of the finest cities in all of China, commenting on its cleanliness, tree-lined streets, and air of relaxed civility. Sadly almost all traces of old Chengdu except for some temples and a few small alleys have completely vanished, yet most visitors still find it an enjoyable city, easily accessed by pedicabs and with lots of tea houses and restaurants serving "little snacks" and hot pot. A visit to the Wuhou Temple is recommended (right top) to get some background on the Three Kingdoms period, one of the most famous eras along the Road to Shu. The hikes in this guide begin three hours to the north of this city, but if you want to linger here a few days, you can take in the Sichuan opera, visit the panda research center or the hot pot restaurants on Qintai Road (below right). A day-trip to the nearby famous Qin dynasty irrigation works at Dujiangyan (below left) is also popular.